Post by TermiteHunter on Dec 6, 2021 21:42:26 GMT -5
Durability of the printed object really does depend on how it is printed by the person setting up the printer and the printers capabilities
The weakness is often in the layers. Poor adhesion due to speed and temp. The model may be printed at various levels of detail with thicker or thinner layers sacrificing detail and strength for speed of printing. There can also be errors in the modeling or slicing of the object that cause weakness.
There are also walls and shells of the material when printing the object. Too few and the outer shell may be too thin. The infill also may not be of sufficient density for the task required by the printed object.
The choice of material is another factor. Most common is PLA (Poly lactic acid made from corn and biodegradable / recyclable) It works well and is one of the easiest to handle. PLA is not good for high heat and cold. Even the high heat of a car interior in summer may deform the object. ABS is another common material that can withstand the heat and is what many plastic objects found in stores is made from. It is a little more difficult to work with with a home printer. There are others, infused with wood, flexible material etc.
I use PLA almost exclusively. I have made a few things with ABS but it is more difficult to work with, I have issues with warping in ABS during the printing. My printer is out on a desktop. An enclosure may reduce that issue for me. The enclosure would reduce drafts, temp variations and contain heat that aids in printing with ABS.
I have used PLA for the 3D printed caches I have placed. They are printed at a "Draft" level of detail (.2mm layers with a .4mm nozzle) The lowest I will go and expect a usable print to come out of it.
They seem to withstand the outside environment long enough to be stolen or destroyed by other means.
I have printed things that are very solid and durable until it gets to that one layer 3 hours into the print and an incomplete layer is made causing failure at that point.
Many are well printed and provide years of service. They are generally very solid when done right.
So, the Kendama sparked this.
The vertical portion printed well. I see a bit of a wave to the vertical spike structure. Could be the source STL (from the Creator) or from my printing (I don't think so since there was no movement of the print)
The horizontal two cup portion broke at the weakest point (where the large hole is to mount it on the vertical portion and two small holes for the string conjoin with few structural components (I will glue and repair the area when mounting to the "ken")
The ball is printing very well and solid at 85% infill for weight and structure.
As far as a Kendama goes overall it looks right and should function well.
There appears to be no small / large cup on the horizontal. They look to be the same size.
Support structures for printing will need to be addressed in one end of the cups.
The weakness is often in the layers. Poor adhesion due to speed and temp. The model may be printed at various levels of detail with thicker or thinner layers sacrificing detail and strength for speed of printing. There can also be errors in the modeling or slicing of the object that cause weakness.
There are also walls and shells of the material when printing the object. Too few and the outer shell may be too thin. The infill also may not be of sufficient density for the task required by the printed object.
The choice of material is another factor. Most common is PLA (Poly lactic acid made from corn and biodegradable / recyclable) It works well and is one of the easiest to handle. PLA is not good for high heat and cold. Even the high heat of a car interior in summer may deform the object. ABS is another common material that can withstand the heat and is what many plastic objects found in stores is made from. It is a little more difficult to work with with a home printer. There are others, infused with wood, flexible material etc.
I use PLA almost exclusively. I have made a few things with ABS but it is more difficult to work with, I have issues with warping in ABS during the printing. My printer is out on a desktop. An enclosure may reduce that issue for me. The enclosure would reduce drafts, temp variations and contain heat that aids in printing with ABS.
I have used PLA for the 3D printed caches I have placed. They are printed at a "Draft" level of detail (.2mm layers with a .4mm nozzle) The lowest I will go and expect a usable print to come out of it.
They seem to withstand the outside environment long enough to be stolen or destroyed by other means.
I have printed things that are very solid and durable until it gets to that one layer 3 hours into the print and an incomplete layer is made causing failure at that point.
Many are well printed and provide years of service. They are generally very solid when done right.
So, the Kendama sparked this.
The vertical portion printed well. I see a bit of a wave to the vertical spike structure. Could be the source STL (from the Creator) or from my printing (I don't think so since there was no movement of the print)
The horizontal two cup portion broke at the weakest point (where the large hole is to mount it on the vertical portion and two small holes for the string conjoin with few structural components (I will glue and repair the area when mounting to the "ken")
The ball is printing very well and solid at 85% infill for weight and structure.
As far as a Kendama goes overall it looks right and should function well.
There appears to be no small / large cup on the horizontal. They look to be the same size.
Support structures for printing will need to be addressed in one end of the cups.